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MAKING A PLASTER MOLD OF THE CLAY HAND
Part 2 of the How To Make Molds for Body Parts How-To Series
You'll need a mold made in Ultra-Cal 30 of this clay hand, in order to make your finished piece in latex. Here's how we did it. Materials Used: 
We started on a piece of formica. Splitting the small blocks of klean klay into strips I made a wall a little bigger than the hand. You can use W.E.D. clay or any other wet clay for this, but I didn't have time to do it all in one evening and didn't want the wall to dry up and crack like the water based clays do.   
You'll need to build up a wall of waterbased clay around the hand to mark it in half. You'll be making a 2 part mold, and the only way to get the first half is to divide your piece in half. You'll notice our hand is a bit rounded. If you want an easier piece to mold we suggest you cast a flatter hand and perhaps fingers together, so you won't have to build a wall of clay between the fingers as we will here. The waterbased clay will not stick to the oil clay you made your initial piece out of.   A note here... And something we didn't do when making our mold. You might want to add some keys now. Keys are made of clay, maybe square or look like a half of a small ball. In the past I've used superballs cut in half. Place these on 2 or 3 spot on the clay wall. When your mold is finished these ‘keys' will fit into each other and you'll be sure that your mold goes together correctly. We didn't key here (sometimes I'm lazy), but I also knew that my mold would a little higher on one side than the other so fitting the 2 pieces together correctly wouldn't be a problem.   
Mix up another batch of Ultra-Cal, just like you did with the first and build up the mold. I like to round mine out a bit for easier handling later, but you can make it more of a block if you wish. You might need a 3rd batch depending on your piece. I like a smooth mold so when the plaster is starting to set up I use a flexible palette to smooth it out. A little piece of hemp rolled up in a ball works great also.
When the plaster starts heating up and then cools down you'll know it's set. Some people would pull the mold now, but I always wait an hour or so. If you pull the mold too soon you will weaken the plaster and you won't be able to use the mold as often as you could if you just let it set up longer. Optimum time is 7 days.. but who has that kind of time. When it's time take down the clay walls and slowly pull the Moulage or clay away from the bottom. Clean off all the clay and get it ready for the 2nd half of your mold. I cut a couple pieces of klean klay and placed them on the plaster. These will make a space between the molds so I can put a screwdriver in and pry the pieces open after I've made my 2nd half. 
Also using the klean klay (you can use waterbased clay if you wish) I put up small wall around my piece to keep this next layer of plaster from dripping over the side. Using a cue tip or chip brush apply a layer of vaseline over the exposed cured plaster, this will keep the 2nd half of the mold from sticking to the first. I made up a small batch of plaster and did a splash coat over the hand, like I did when making my first half.
Build up this half of the mold with a 2nd or 3rd batch of plaster if needed, smooth out an allow to cure. As before, don't pull the mold apart too soon. When it is fully cured place a screw drive on both sides of the mold and slowly pry it apart. You now have a 2 part mold. Clean out the clay. Place your piece together to see how they fit and with a rasp, when the mold is closed, smooth down the sides of the mold.This is the end of making a 2 part mold. Our next How-To will show you how to pour in the latex, cold foam and make the finished cut off body part.  Disclaimer: FX Warehouse Inc. will not be responsible for use of misuse of any products you may buy or use from us. Most of our products are for Professional Use only. Use at your own risk. |
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